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Try this upscale eatery
The Uptown Chef tries downtown spot for new lunch time restaurant
By The Go! Mystery Reviewer
The Uptown Chef (or Molly's, as we've heard some call it, after its owner) is most convenient for
those already downtown and on foot, since there's little parking closer than the
library lot or the garage. But it's not a bad walk, and the library lot is free.
It's fun to stroll along Division Street and watch for faces you know -- here a lawyer,
there the mayor.
Inside The Uptown Chef, the atmosphere is inviting, with 11 tables for two or four set around a
room with grooved, cream-colored wooden walls. (There's seating outdoors, too,
though it may be some months before any of us are interested in asking for that
option.) The decor is upscale chef, with a checkerboard pattern chef border
complemented around the room with black and gold table linens. Light jazz plays
softly in the background. Every table has its own pepper mill and matching salt
shaker, a nice touch.
In one of this location's previous incarnations, food preparation was done in a tiny back room
with minimal equipment. Now Chef Taylor, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of
America, has transformed a corner of the dining room from a mere service and
setup area to a working, open kitchen. You'll know your food is coming fresh and
hot from the kitchen because you'll see it being made.
Have you ever been to one of those chain restaurants whose menu is so thick that you practically lose
your appetite trying to page through all the choices? That's not an issue at The
Uptown Chef, whose brief yet ample menu fits on one side of a legal-size sheet
of paper. Diners select from one of five categories: sandwich, panini (a
grilled, pressed sandwich), wraps, salads and pizzas.
Oh, and each day, in addition to a sandwich special, there's a soup for $3.50. The chicken noodle
soup we get is hearty and warming, a large portion with chunks of both light and
dark meat, noodles that look and taste homemade, and a thick, peppery broth.
We opt for a Rustic French Dip Panini ($7.99), with medium-rare roast beef, provolone, and glazed
red onions and mushrooms inside two thick, hearty pieces of grilled bread, with
au jus on the side. The roast beef is tender and flavorful and the au jus is
savory without being too salty, a perfect complement.
We've had crab cakes many ways on the Shore, but never on a salad, so we bravely order the Crab Cake
Caesar ($9.99), a 5-ounce jumbo lump crab cake perched atop a small Caesar
salad. The crab cake comes out thick and hot, with subtle seasonings. The
parmesan is freshly shaved and the lettuce is bright and crisp. All of it is
served in a crunchy lavash shell. Both the salad and the lavash are unusual
platforms for a crab cake, but as all parts of the dish are done well, we think
it works.
We've heard good things, too about The Uptown Chef's Oriental Chicken, available both as a wrap
and a salad for $7.99. Sesame chicken is served with Mandarin oranges and baby
spinach.
The Uptown Chef makes the decision of whether to have dessert after lunch an easy one: The day we
visit, the only option is a warm brownie sundae with vanilla ice cream. The
brownie is warm, moist and chocolatey and entirely satisfying, and with the
dessert split between two people, it's almost guilt free. (Hey, we can claim to
be working off the calories by walking back to our car, right?)
At The Uptown Chef, even the drinks are done well: trendy pomegranate iced tea is mildly fruity and
good without any sugar or sweetener. The coffee is fresh and strong.
Here's hoping The Uptown Chef will continue offering a unique, upscale lunch experience downtown
for a long time to come.
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